Essential Portrait Skills for Street Photographers | FUJIFILM Exposure Center – USA

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Photo 2023 © Derek Fahsbender | FUJIFILM X-T4 and FUJINON XF33mmF1.4 R LM WR, 1/2000 sec at F2.8, ISO 160

6 minute read

Essential Portrait Skills for Street Photographers

Portraiture and street photography are inextricably linked. In this chapter, Derek Fahsbender outlines how to get the most from your imaging interactions with people – wherever and however you choose to create

“Most of the questions I get asked about street photography are regarding photos of people,” says Derek Fahsbender, to open this chapter’s video. It’s no surprise. Undeniably, we live in a portrait-dominated imaging world, and the reason is as simple as it is beautiful. There’s little that carries more emotional weight than meaningful human interaction. The opportunity to savor these moments in picture form is a natural draw, and Derek himself is not immune. He views portraits as lasting reminders of fleeting experiences, and thoughtful depictions of his subjects’ innermost nature.

“People are so interesting to me,” he enthuses. “Obviously, that’s the heart of portraiture. I studied sociology and psychology in college, and have carried that interest into my picture making. Everybody is so different. And it’s not only people that are interesting, but every interaction. I view it as an equation. You’ve got a particular subject at a specific moment in time, combined with how you perceive it all as a creator.”

Monochrome image of young man with long braids partially covering his face with his fingers

Photo 2023 © Derek Fahsbender | FUJIFILM X-Pro3 and FUJINON XF90mmF2 R LM WR, 1/250 sec at F2, ISO 80

Even contained within the same genre, every image maker’s interests are unique. Varied visions are sparked from situation to situation. In portraiture, there are many questions to consider. Where does the genuine nature of a candid frame give way to posed aesthetic appeal? How do I approach a subject? Is there a single best way to craft the image? These are points Derek has asked and answered many times over.

“With street portraiture, there’s an opportunity to document something entirely natural. It might not be a posed, flattering image of somebody, but it’s real. A sense of truth is the best thing you can possibly encapsulate,” Derek notes. “I try not to pose subjects or over-direct. If they’re uncomfortable in front of the camera, I want that to come through, because it ultimately represents who they are in that moment.

“In the studio, it’s a little different. You have to direct, but for me, the element of an honest moment still has to come through. If you let a subject pose 100% naturally, it might not fit your vision. You have to know when to rein a person in for the sanctity of the photo. If someone is moving excessively around a space, but I have a tight 50mm frame, I can’t practically make an image of what they’re doing. So, take what’s there, but coax it in the direction you’ve envisioned. One helpful cue is to tell people: ‘imagine you’re in a box’. They can do anything they want in there, but I know I’m getting it all in frame.”

Young man with long braids jubilantly jumping into air against yellow backdrop

Photo 2023 © Derek Fahsbender | FUJIFILM X-Pro3 and FUJINON XF16-55mmF2.8 R LM WR, 1/125 sec at F7.1, ISO 200

Back on the street, Derek’s thoughts turn to the hunt for opportunity.

“Keep your head on a swivel,” he suggests. “I’m constantly looking two blocks ahead and two blocks behind me. I can’t tell you how many times I’ve spotted someone from that far away and instantly known they’re the person. That’s when I start a process I call forecasting. I’m looking for suitable backdrops they might cross, how the space contrasts with what they’re wearing, and the angle my light is coming from. I’m watching for likely changes of direction, and eventually I’m questioning whether I’ll stop them or make a candid frame.

“For beginners who find piecing everything together too much, find a space you like, camp there, then focus only on who’s about to enter that scene. When you have an image lined up, think about your reasons for creating an environmental portrait,” Derek continues. “I see a lot of photographers on the street open up a very shallow depth-of-field, which draws focus to the main subject, but also erases the important context. Use a person’s surroundings to your advantage and let it set the tone.”

Young Latin woman posing against vibrant fruit and vegetable stand on New York City street

Photo 2023 © Derek Fahsbender | FUJIFILM X-T4 and FUJINON XF33mmF1.4 R LM WR, 1/480 sec at F1.4, ISO 160

As covered in chapter one of this series, Derek views lighting as the single most important element in any photo. Portraiture is no exception – but unlike broader street photography, creatives may be hard-pressed to utilize every type of light available for flattering results. Rather, it becomes a case of seeking out a sliver of shade, finding environmental sources at night, or taking matters into your own hands.

“You can always find good light – especially in urban areas,” Derek asserts. “As far as artificial options go, I’m a huge fan of continuous light. It’s easy to work with because what you see is what you get – especially with a system that has Natural Live View, like X Series.

“I’d look for an LED light with range, something that’s dimmable and can go through the Kelvin range from cool to warm. Simply start small and manageable. You can throw gels on any LED if you want to have fun with the color, or find modifiers to control the look.

“Studio portraiture is difficult to break into, so it’s all about making the process as easy as possible. If you’re new to lighting, it might not be a great idea to sit there playing with a strobe for 30 minutes because you don’t know what mode you’re in. When you focus less on the tools, you can think more about the creative aspects.”

Young man with long braids posing hesitantly under blue lights

Photo 2023 © Derek Fahsbender | FUJIFILM X-Pro3 and FUJINON XF27mmF2.8 R WR, 1/250 sec at F2.8, ISO 80

Simple lighting setups are easy to find, and with a single source, there’s little to get wrong. Still, Derek’s method is the same as his approach to creation across the board: free form, experimental, and unafraid.

“Have fun with it, play around. Go back and look at studio sessions you’ve done, to learn from your mistakes. You’ll discover what does and doesn’t look good. If you didn’t know about a certain lighting pattern and it ruins a set of images, you’ll know now,” he laughs.

A final unique aspect of Derek’s style is contrary to many street photographers, but hints at his capacity to forge meaningful connections with his subjects. For him, portraiture is not a selfish pursuit, but a shared source of joy.

“If the person is going to see the portrait, I want them to love it,” he reveals. “This is where the contradiction of my style comes in. I meet this crossroads, where I believe people should create for themselves unequivocally, but when it’s an image of somebody else, I suppose you would call it an extenuating circumstance. It’s possible to concede a little without compromising your vision.

Tattooed photographer showing images on camera to young male model with long braids

“Most people just want to look their best. So, it’s pivotal for me to get everything out in the open. I’ll ask my subjects: ‘Are there any features you’re conscious of?’ It can be uncomfortable, but rip the Band-Aid off! What you’re really asking here is: ‘Are there things I could do, either knowingly or unknowingly, that will make you not like this photo?’

“In the same sense, it’s important to remember, you don’t have to make every portrait someone asks for,” Derek concludes. “I don’t ever want to put myself in a position that demands I stretch beyond the limit I feel happy with. Yes, push yourself out of your comfort zone, but if it’s a project you’re not passionate about, it’s unlikely you’ll create your best work. Especially in portraiture, you need that strong connection. Don’t sacrifice who you are as an artist.”

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Creator

Derek Fahsbender

Derek Fahsbender is a Bronx-based photographer best known for capturing the aesthetic of the urban landscape and the colorful characters within. Drawing inspiration from the unforgiving streets of New York City he remembers while growing up in the 1980’s, Derek’s work seeks to bring the viewer ...

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